Chapter 17: Canopy Systems

Canopy frame brace Canopy stiffening Fairing in the gas struts Canopy to frame, cleco mounting Canopy fairing Canopy latch striker installation Aft latch, typical Routing channel for "D'' seal Sealing side rail channel Possible methods of sealing canopy Alternative sealing methods to consider Alternative latching method Lever style latch mechanism Positioning lever latch Lever handle assembly Finger recess area Forming handle and finger recess Installation oflatch striker plate Bonding striker plate into longeron Canopy locks Canopy closure guide end Chapter 17 I REV. 0 I 11-1-91 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnncnir lnlemntionnl Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 ~ ',d ~ 3. EQUIPMENT REQUIRED - SPECIAL PARTS, TOOLS & SUPPLIES [M; A. Parts • Pre-molded canopy frame • Pre-molded plexiglass canopy • Appropriate components for your choic e of canopy - either swing arms or hinges and air pistons • Key locks (optional) • Solenoid locks (optional) • "P" strip or equivalent sealing strip - ab out 18'. Chapter 17 I REV. 0 I 11-1-91 \,( CANOPY SYSTEMS P'- Luncair Intemntional Ine. CopyrightC 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 B. Tools ~ • drill motor • drill bits: 3/16" 9/32" 1/8" #12 #19 #30 • hammer • hot glue gun or clamps • tape measure • rotary grinder (Dremel or equiv.) • 1/4-20 tap & drill bit • Clecoes (about 30) • Cleco pliers • Pencil . .. Chapter 17 I REV. 0 I 11-1-91 \--;, CANOPY SYSTEMS IP Lnncuir Intemational Inc. CopyrightC 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 C. Materials & supplies • L-320 Forward Hinge Canopy Kit (Optional) • Uni-Directional carbon fiber (for fwd hinge canopy only) • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • epoxy flax BID cloth micro sandpaper, assorted grit Duct tape or release tape MC or acetone for cleaning structural adhesive 1/4" and 1/2" white Clark foam sheets plastic tape (release tape) 1/4" phenolic material for hard points instant or hot glue Nails for making canopy frame brace 2" x 4" board, 16-17" long Inflatable "D" seal or equiv . 3/8" plywood or equiv . Some scrap wood for making a canopy frame brace / holding fixture Double-sided tape or equiv . Bonda or equivalent .090" aluminum for hard points plastic electrical tape (1/2" wide - get a couple of rolls) Lancnir Intemalionnl Inc. 9opyrighl 0 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 4. PROCEDURE: Standard Opening Canopy A. Canopy frame 1. Since you have already established the fwd deck location, cleco it in place as shown in figure 17-5. 2. In order to have the canopy frame maintain the proper shape, and still be able to work on it, a brace for it must be constructed. Get two pieces of plywood or equiv. and make a contour pattern of the fwd deck at the junction of the canopy frame and also a pattern of the rear roll over. These do not have to be accurate at all, just pencil them in by placing the piece of plywood on the longerons and by laying a pencil flat on the decks, trace off the contour line all the way down to the longerons. These pieces of wood should be about 6" wider than the fuselage at their relative positions so that they hang over the longerons by 3" per side. They will be used later to make a quick and simple jig to hold the canopy frame when you remove it from the fuselage. By making sure that the wood is level, it will be easy to sit the frame upside down later without it "walking around" when you're working on it. See figure 17-4. Set the wood aside. Canopy frame assembly EXPLODED VIEW Figure 17-3 ,.,. ,,._,® 320FB EJ Chapter 17 REV. 0 / 11-1-91 .-~ 17-7 1---===-=-=---'------'-'-=-'=-=-::-----+f~ CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnncnir International Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 TRACING PATTERN for CANOPY BRACES Figure 17-4 ~-- ,, -- ,,, I I II ~ l ....,._ -... -... ' ' Fwd deck contour ' ' \ \ \ \ I Rollover contour Longeron 3. Lay the canopy frame over the airframe in relative position. Check for side rail alignment, the frame sides will eventually have approximately 1/8" - 3/16" clearance from the top of the longerons. This is to allow for a "P" strip seal or equiv. Lnnenir Intemationo.l Inc:. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 4. Locate the frame in a fwd/aft orientation that places it at a point which allows for complete coverage of both the fwd deck joggle and the aft roll over joggle. The frame has been factory trimmed to mate with these joggles. If at all possible, it is generally best to orientate the frame as far fwd as possible, this will provide additional instrument room since the distance from canopy to panel would be at its maximum potential. Trim and sand as necessary to establish an alignment with the L.E. of the fwd deck joggle and alignment with the T.E. of the aft roll over joggle. NOTE: It is recommended that before you trim any of the material on the sides of the frame, first be sure that the frame is flushed up with the surfaces of the fwd deck and aft deck. The joggle may be initially too deep so use short pieces of mixing sticks to shim the frame up to a flush condition. Use dabs of hot or instant glue to hold these shims in temporary position as shown in figure 17-5. NOTE: Do not trim the inside of the frame (where the canopy will install) until you have laid the canopy itself over and verified dimensions. You'll want to establish at least 5/8" overlap on all areas except for the front curved area where the overlap can be a little less. (The canopy will be bonded to the inside of the frame but you can verify dimensions by fitting it over the top initially.) Cleco----.. to hold header tank in position. Canopy frame taped in position Figure 17-5 -- -------------- -------- -- - - ...~:;:,x.•:::S · SM;::::;-;~: ' ape to hold canopy ~ frame in position. ,., ® 320FB E] Chapter17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91-V&!4/A 11-9 ~==~_JL___.....::..:_-=--=-=-=-----H~CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnneair Intemntion.nl Inc. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97766 5. With the canopy frame fitted into the joggles you are ready to trim the lower edges as necessary to accurately match the frame side profile to the fuselage sides. By using mixing sticks and hot or instant glue, and cutting and sanding as necessary, position the canopy frame so that it is flush with the fuselage profile, with about 1/8" gap between the frame sides and the longerons, even fore & aft and on both sides. Either sand this to a smooth line now, or mark it well and sand it later after you install the bracing and remove the canopy frame for other steps. 6. Referring to figure 17-6, carefully lay out the hard point positions by marking their lines onto the fslg sides. Draw a line that crosses the longerons vertically and thus provides position marking reference on both the canopy frame (inside and outside) and the fslg. Label them as "fwd canopy swing, aft canopy swing, latch, etc. (This can become confusing later so some simple labeling now will eliminate some later head scratching.) Also mark the area that foam will need to be removed from to make clearance for the swing arms. There will be eight hardpoints that must be installed for the swing arms; four on the inside of the outbd edge of the canopy frame, and four on the outbd side of the inbd edge. You will also need four hard points for the latches, two fore and two aft, on the outbd side of the inbd edge of the frame lip. CANOPY FRAME HARD POINTS Figure 17-6 Instrument panel face location is adjustable, affecting knee room and instrumentation room. Approx. FS-28.5 • I I I I Ir-:--, ' ' ' Fwd latches to positi~~ approx. 2" aft of instrumen~~ panel face. See figure 17-10. Aft swing arm/ longeron attaches at approx. FS39.5 See figure 17-9, view AA. Locate hard points in frame using swing arms as a reference. See figure 17-9 view BB. Aft latch to position just fwd of seat back. Locate hard points in canopy frame to align. See figure 17-10. ... ~AH.a® 32fir.,,r,, B Chapter 17 REV. O/ 11-1-91V~-. UJ.1 n 17-10 f--_,__ __'------------H-l<-H CANOPY SYSTEMS Luncuir Intcmatiorml Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 7. Referring to figure 17-7, mark off on the inside of the canopy frame the area that will have to be cleared of foam for the swing arms when they are in both the open and closed positions. Label these marks so you can recognize them later, you'll be pulling the frame off in a while to grind out the foam and you don't want to have to be putting this thing on and taking it off any more than you must. CANOPY PIVOT ARC FIGURE 17-7 .. --·. --- ~--... ·' ' ' lCamLoc Latch Canopy/ frame (amLoc Latch -'!//1/j~u1/lll Canopy spring FS-39.5 FS-28.5 approx. instrument panel face. Adjust to suit 8. Now that the exterior of the canopy frame is the exact shape we want it to be, and we have all of the hard point locations marked off, we need to construct a brace to hold it in that position while we do some extensive modifying on the inside. Using a sabre or jig saw, cut out the plywood pieces you marked earlier, so that you have a silhouette that is slightly larger than the canopy frame itself. Don't bother trying to get it even close, Bondo will take care of that. 9. Sand the braces to remove any splinters that would get you later, and wipe the inside edge of the patterns with acetone or MC to clean them for the next step. 10. Referring to figure 17-8, mix up a big hot (lots of hardener) gob ofBondo, spread it along the forward part of the canopy frame from one side to the other, in spots about 2" long and a half inch deep. Squish the forward brace piece down into position, wiggling it a bit to get it down to the frame through the Bondo. Check that the top line of the board is level side to side (so it will be able to rest upside down) and true vertical (so it won't fold under when there is weight on it) and hold it for about 5 minutes while the Bondo cures enough to hold its position. Repeat this process for the aft brace. ... ·-,,.., ,,,,...® 3oflnr:,,,-,, B Chapter 17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91v~x -""'VJ:' _n 17-11 i--:==::...::.::..._.J______:_:.._::_:....:....::..::__+Ai'-J.-1 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancnir Inlematiofl.Lll Inc. Copyright Q 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 I Canopy frame brace Figure 17-8 equiv. 11. Nail, screw or glue a couple of pieces of wood as shown in figure 17-8 between the two braces to make them a more rigid structure. Then use some more Bondo to put a couple of fore-aft braces down the sides of the frame, bedding the wood as you did in step 6, and then screw or nail it to the front and back braces. BE SURE NOT TO DISTORT YOUR CANOPY FRAME WHEN YOU DO THIS - When you are finished with the next steps, if you have distorted it here, the distortions will be permanent! Later on, when you are finished with the frame, you can simply knock the boards off with a good smack of a hammer. 12. Cut 8 pieces of .090" aluminum that are 1-1/4" square. These will be potted into the side rails (inside and outside surfaces) at all four attach points where the canopy parallelogram arms connect. See figure 17-6. 13. Cut 4 pieces of .090" aluminum that are 2" long x 1-1/4" wide. These will be potted into the inner sides of the frame where the four latches will anchor, see figure 1 7-6. 14. Remove the canopy frame and bracing from the fslg and place it inverted on a bench or on the floor. Sand a smooth line onto the bottom of the rails to create a finished line for the side rails, if you didn't do this in step 5 . • .- ,,,. a-.® 3oflnr.nn. 8 Chapter 17 REV. 0 / 11-1-91• ~x. --"UJl.1 n 11-12 f---'==::...::..:__Jc________-H~ CANOPY SYSTEMS L11.nc11.ir Inlemnlional Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 15. Using a drill with a router bit (or using a Dremel tool), remove the foam from the inside bottom of the side rails to form a channel. See figures 17-9 and 17-10. This channel should be made such that about 3/16" of foam remains along the outbd sides, the inbd sides can be carved out on a taper so that you will end up with a glass to glass edge. See cross sectional drawing, figure 17-10. (A fairly standard "ball" type router bit is available in most hardware stores, these are sometimes called "rotary rasps".) CANOPY FRAME SIDE RAIL CHANNEL CROSS SECTION VIEWS Figure 17-9 VIEW AA VIEWBB CROSS SECTION AT FS-39.5 Aft swing rod / Longeron attach CROSS SECTION AT TYPICAL SWING ROD AT!'ACH WCATIONS Aft pivot MS24694-S15 or AN3-10A, pot in with flox Stop nut MS24694 -S54 Flox typ. Pre-molded --'w-,1,\ canopy frame fmuncore (shape from 3 1/2 11 pcs Longeron 7' 5/8" ..l ·- ,,,.,..,.,_® 3ofiir..nn. B Chapter17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 ..~x. ...::;,u.l" n 17-13 f--==-=c:...::..:'----L-----'-----+HH1 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancair International Inc, Copyright C 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 Canopy Strike MS21042-83 stop nut Phenolic 3BID 2BID 3BID LATCH INSTALLATION CANOPY FRAME SIDE RAIL CHANNEL CROSS SECTION VIEW Figure 17-10 Flox/epoxy Frame MS24694-S5 Flox/epoxy Flox/epoxy MS24694-S8 machine screw ' o:I '' ,./:I FRONT LATCH, typ. AFT LATCH, typ. I c.;,{€vCAfA® 320FB II17-14 If---C_h_a~p~t_er_l_;_AN----'-0-R;-·;-·S_Y_S_TE_oM_/s_l_l-_l-_9_1_-H--JH-1 Lancair Jnlernationnl Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 16. Once the channel is carved out fairly close to final size, go in by hand with a piece ~ of 40 grit sand paper and give it a final sanding to smooth everything up. NOTE: Clearances are fairly tight, particularly where the aluminum extrusion fits into the channel when the canopy is closed. Locate that area and establish proper clearances. Also the~ channel can terminate at an aft point that is approximately 1" aft of the rear swing arm attachment position however, the channel must continue aft to the point where the rear latches will be positioned. At that location, the channel can be narrower but room must be maintained to allow access for the latch "strike" mounting nuts. See figure 17-10. WARNING: The four hard points that will attach the lock mechanisms will require the full elimination of foam against the inbd side of the channel where the aluminum inserts will mount. For structural integrity, all foam must be removed, thus the inner BID will attach directly to the aluminum inserts. See figure 17-10. 17. Remove the foam from the outbd section of the frame where the swing rod attach hardpoints will mount, sanding away all foam. Clean the area with MC or acetone. Rough up all surfaces of the four outbd aluminum hardpoints, clean them thoroughly with MC and, using epoxy/micro (or preferably, structural adhesive), bond them against the canopy frame. A small clamp should be used to hold them in place until cured. The squeeze-out of adhesive should be formed into a nice fillet, and any extra cleaned off before it hardens. 18. Locate and install the four inner hard points that will pick up the latches. Be sure to rough up the aluminum and clean it well for a good bond. 19. The fwd pivot weldment will exit the channel through a required cut in the channel walls adjacent to the instrument panel. See figure 17-11. Make this cut out now. 20. With the channel completed, itis a good idea to lay the canopy frame (with braces still attached) back onto the airframe and verify that the channel will clear all the rods that must lay inside when the canopy is closed. Adjust as required. Try to maintain as large of a lip on the outbd portion of the channel sides as possible. This will help provide a good surface upon which to place a seal strip later. With the checks made, place the frame back on the bench. 21. Apply a 2 BID lay up into the channel. Use a thin application of micro over the foam first to seal the foam pores. See figures 17-9 and 17-10. Lnncnir Intemntiannl Inc. Copyright C 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 Foam must taper to avoid interference with the Glare Shield-Dust Cover 2"-----i- CANOPY to FRAME ASSEMBLY FWD EDGE CROSS SECTION Figure 17-11 FWD - . . ... ... ,,.... ;n ,....,.® 30.0.-.-:,,,,. 8 Chapter 17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 '11111"~.N. ~.11 ,n 17-16 i--.:==:...:..:______JC......::..___:_:__:_:_~=------H~ CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancair Internalionnl Inc. Copyright C 1991, Redmond, OR 97766 B. Canopy swing mechanism - canopy fwd pivot weldment ~ The standard mechanism that opens and closes the canopy is that of a parallelo- gram system. There is one fwd cross weldment that crosses the fslgin front of the instrument panel and two aft swing arms that attach the aft portion of the canopy to the longerons. This will produce a movement that rotates the canopy up and forward providing excellent access into the cockpit area from either side of the plane. This system is spring loaded so that it will operate with finger tip ease. 1. Position the fwd canopy pivot weldment across the longerons. The actual FS location is not critical. If you keep at least three inches fwd of the instrument panel, then you will have room to install circuit brealcers, switches, etc. along the bottom and still clear this pivot weldment. (A suitable position for the weldment is approximately FS-23). 2. The weldment must not extend more than halfway over the longerons on each side. This is to allow adequate room for the canopy frame to extend down past the weldment and seal against the outbd portion of the longerons. See figure 17-12. 3. Lay the weldment down on the longerons and square it with the center line of the fuselage. Note the angle that the 12" s 7IlS form when laid on the longerons. They should approximately parallel the widening nature of the longeron spacing as they move aft, i.e., when moving aft, as the cockpit gets wider, the canopy pivot weldment should be bent to approximately follow that widening span. This can be easily tailored by simply putting a little additional bend if needed at the existing bends in the weldment. 4. Now, to make things work a little better yet, place a counter bend in the top of each arm on that weldment such to help align the through holes as approximately parallel to each other, see figure 17-12. This will help later when drilling for the attachment bolt holes in the canopy frame NOTE: This is not a critical fit and is not structural either. This system only functions to open and close the canopy and has no interaction with the completely separate safety latching mechanism for flight conditions. 5. Next cut the two phenolic saddles that will be used to mount the pivot weldment, see figure 17-13. These are cut from 1/4" phenolic. Drill a 7/16" hole to form the saddle then make two vertical saw cuts to complete the cut out shape. A little filing will be necessary to provide clearance for when the weldment is in the aft down position (canopy closed) and also when rotated fwd into the fwd down position (canopy open). See figure 17-12. ,.....,. ,_ ,,,.,.,,.® 3011rnr..in. EJ Chapter 17 I REV. 0/ 11-1-91 h< vt;A.;X. ...::;tU..t' _n 17-17 1------,.:==.:...:..::__L.::_:___ __::__:,-=....:....::-=-----+-,r.¥+1 CANOPY SYSTEMS )0( Lnncnir Intcrnntional Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OH 97756 CANOPYFORWARDPIVOTWELDMENT Figure 17-12 Phenolic "Saddle" --- Aluminum "Keeper" Position retainer FWD Machine screw MS24694-S19 File flats on head before potting in with flox/epoxy DOWN ,_,.,,,., ,,,_,® 30.on.-:,,,,. B Chapter 17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 -V~x ...::;/UJ:' _n 17-18 1--'--.......:..::.::....:C-'---'----------+BH-j CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnmair Intemntional Inc. Copyright O 1991, Redmond, OR 9775G CANOPY FWD PIVOT, KEEPER/ SADDLE (2) TWO EACH REQUIRED KEEPER: Al., .090" thick 1 3/4"---i FIGURE 17-13 SADDLE: Phenolic, 1/4" thick 1 1/8'7 +t 121/4"7 l1 1/4" 1 1/4' +J ~___.J7/16" dia. 7/16" dia. Clamp & drill (#19 bit) Saddle & keeper after Saddle is floxed in place. 6. Also make the two aluminum "keepers" that will secure the weldment down into the phenolic saddles, see figure 17-13 for dimensions. 7. Bond the phenolic saddles against the side of the longeron at the appropriate location. You will need to make a foam filler block per figure 17-14 to fill the void under the longeron. Use epoxy/micro to secure this in position. Clamp and allow to cure. 8. Next apply a 2 BID lay up over the phenolic saddles. This should contact about 1" onto the fslg all around. This 2 BID does not have to extend up and onto the longeron tops. Allow to cure. 9. After cure, position the weldment into the saddles and verify sufficient corner clearances to allow the weldment to rotate aft such that the ends of the arms are within 5/8" of the longeron tops. (The arms do not have to touch the longerons since they will be mounted higher.) Also swing the weldment fwd until an angle of approximately 25° is established. (The weldment arms must always clear the fwd deck when in the fwd position, this will generally become the basis of establishing the limit stops for the canopy which will be discussed later.) ,,. ,.,,_.,,.. •-® 320FB B Chapter 17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 V~..n'.' 17 -rn 1--'===---=-.:..._..J______::,__::,=---c_..:___+R(c+1 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancair lnlcmational Inc. Copyrighl 01991, fu!dmond, OR 97756 ;;; ~ " Ir0,.,,. ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ m ~I ~ rnc.l =- io 'O .... ~ ~I~ o I"' 'ti "" ..,: :<: ~00 t'11oS:: -00 .... .... '.... io .... FWD CANOPY SWING MECHANISM Figure 17-14 NOTE: Canopy frame channel will req. a cutout 12" TYP. ''! l Fwd edge of instr panel flange .060" • .090" Al. to fit #19 drill (typ.) ctr / within the Al. pc/ to clearance 5fs,r,;i- #12 drill typ. assemblyheru "Stop" made from pc of 1/2" tubing I &po;ifet Jn FWD l:::,, Canopy pivot weldment ~ retaining plate (file a smooth screw "potted in" MS24694-S19 2 places per side AN3-6A ;idius along top) ~Canopy spring :· §?;I oo 'f!'iJ ~-@I Eng. mt. bracket4 \ AN365-103 - Phenolic receiving block (SADDLE) make from 2 pcs of ...-------- 4 ,, • 1 1/4" phenolic. Drill Ia 7/16" hole first, 0 1112 drill (every l/2">r .090 Al. then cut 1 ~ _______________;t~h~e.;!;sl~o!.:.t.~ 1{:_ 0 0 0 0 0 0 0) , Tension adj at this end ~====~J:l[\J;\ 1/2" X 4 11 X .090" - Spring end does not adj . NOTE: 2 Req'd for canopy spring fwd attach 4 Req'd for rudder cable fwd attach 10. Slide the aluminum "keepers" down over the weldment that's in position in the ~ phenolic saddles. The keepers should fit close but not tightly since the weldment will have to rotate under them. Check for a condition that does not allow more than about .015" clearance or looseness of the weldment in the vertical direction, i.e., you should not be able to wiggle the weldment up and down very much when held in position by the keepers. 11. Locate the two required bolt holes in the bottom of the keepers and drill them first into only the keepers. Use a #19 drill bit. 12. Using a small C-clamp, clamp one side of the keeper down to secure its position over the weldment thus allowing room to drill a hole through the other side. Drill the opposite hole through the entire assembly, all the way through the longeron and through to the outside of the fslg. Temporarily set a machine screw through this hole to secure positioning. Then release the clamp and drill the remaining hole. 13. Pot in the machine screws from the outbd side. Use the standard approach of grinding "flats" on the side of the countersink head and then flox the screw into position. Allow it to penetrate into the longeron enough to add a little micro fill over it. This will require only about a .010" depression. Don't drill it too far. Allow the £loxed in screws to fully cure before tightening up on a nut. See figures 17-12 and 17-14. 14. From a short piece ofl/2" tubing, cut a section in half to form a "stop" for the side to side movement of the weldment. See figures 17-12 and 17-14. Set these in position with either a pop rivet or standard AN rivet, either will work well. 15. The tabs on the side of the weldment will attach to the big springs which can be adjusted to counter balance the weight of the canopy. See figure 17-14. These springs will be attached to the tabs with a simple "link" as shown in figure 17-14. Make one link set for each side. 16. The springs will be a tough pull. They will attach to a tab bolted to the lower engine mount brace arm on the top mount pads. See figure 17-14. They can be made adjustable by installing an adjuster arm similar to that described for the rudder cables. Always place the spring into the last hole and make adjustments by moving the attachment bolt. WARNING: Be very careful when setting these springs. Avoid letting them snap free since they could recoil and hit you in the face! ·-,.,, ,,,,,,..® 3on-.r.nn. 8 Chapter 17 I REV. 0/ 11-1-91 ~-V~x ..::;M..l' _n 17 -21 i---:==::....::..::...._L_:=_:___-=..:.-=-=-=--=-=---+,~c:Jv~ CANOPY SYSTEMS '°' Lunc:uir Jntcmntionnl Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 C. Canopy frame aft swing arms These are very simple rods that complete the parallelogram movement by supporting the back of the canopy frame. They attach to a fitting off the longeron and attach through the back of the canopy frame. 1. Select the "H" section aluminum extrusions and trim them down to resemble figure 17-15. 2. Locate the attach point on the longeron where these fittings will be installed and install using two machine screws. Locate the holes in the aluminum fitting first and use it as a guide in drilling through the longerons. You should also predrill the holes that will attach the swing rods. Pot the machine screws in from the exterior by creating "flats" on the sides of the countersink heads and pot them in with epoxy/fl.ox. 3. Attach the swing rods per figure 17-7. Flox Use structural adhesive here AFT CANOPY ''H' PIVOT RIGHT SIDE SHOWN FIGURE 17-15 r,I I I I I I I I r, I' I I I I 5/8" S24694-S15 r-----7 I I I I I I Trim off vexcess I I L------...1 AN365-832 ,...,.. _,.. ,,,_,® 30111rr.,,n, EJ Chapter 17 REV. 0 / 11-1-91 .~~ ~.r n 11-22 i--:==:.....:..:__JL___----'---'-------"'----------'----+1~ CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancnir Intcmutionnl Ini::. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97756 4. Carefully mark the locations of the canopy frame attachment holes that are on ~ the ends of the aluminum pivot arms. These locations must be carefully marked onto the sides of the fslg and should represent a position for the rods when they are elevated approximately 1/16" above the top of the longerons. If you make two long reference lines on the side of the fslg to locate each hole, then finding their position once the canopy frame is laid onto the plane will be easy. (This is similar to the described method oflocating the holes for the middle gear door brackets, refer back to page 6-18, step 9). 5. Place the canopy frame onto the fslg and locate the four attachment hole positions. Use a #12 drill bit and drill through the outer side only of the side rail. 6. Once you've drilled through the first (outer) wall of the side rail, reach in and slip the aluminum rod onto the drill bit to verify alignment. Then drill the rest of the way through the inner side rail of the canopy frame. 7. With all four hole sets drilled, you can slip the long machine screws in and the canopy frame can be rotated up. It will seem quite wiggly and clumsy- don't worry though. After the canopy is bonded into position, additional stiffeners are laid up and once the springs are set, it will work nice and smooth . • .- ,,.. ,,,, ® 30~ 8 Chapter 17 I REV. 0/ 11-1-91 ~-.-41111 fl!l_ .,;,u_.l' n 17-23 t----===:....:::..:___J____.::..:.._c=..=-=-+lv-'l?-l-lv CANOPY SYSTEMS ,.-,_ Lnnenir Intel'Jllltional Inc. Copyright C 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 D. Canopy latch mechanism ~ The in flight latch mechanism is a very straight forward installation using CamLoc® safety latches. These latches will pull over center for a positive lock with an additional safety catch to prevent accidental opening. These are each load rated at more than 4 times the required strength. 1. First locate the positions of the hard points in the inner side rails where the latches will be positioned. Put a pencil mark on the glass to easily depict their location. 2. Position and mount the "strike" for the latches by drilling the two #19 holes through the strike as a guide and thus through the inbd side rails of the canopy frame. The strikes should be positioned even with the bottom of the side rail. See figure 17-10. 3. Next position the latch onto the strike and mark a reference position onto the sides of the fslg to show the location needed for the latch build up attachment block. See figure 17-10. Note the distance inbd from the fslg sides required for the latch when it is properly hooked on the strike. This will require the latch to be positioned off of the inner surface of the fslg skin. 4. Form a phenolic block that shims the latch out to the required position and orientation. Cut a smaller phenolic piece to fill the cavity under the longeron. This does not have to be a real snug fit, simply use epoxy/ flox to pot this in and fill any little voids. See figure 17-10. 5. Drill and install the two machine screws that will pot in from the back side of the phenolic to secure the latch onto the face block. Use the MS24694-S8 screws and pot them into the phenolic in the usual manner. WARNING: When potting the machine screws into the phenolic block for the latches, do not remove any more of the phenolic than is absolutely required to lock the heads into the piece. Remember to file flats on the screw heads to prevent the screw from slipping. You may also use 1/2" phenolic if the installation of the latch requires additional shim distance. NOTE: When setting the proper vertical alignment of the latches, check to verify that the internal latch adjustment is set to a mid range. The hook on the latch can be screwed up or down to fine tune the amount of pull produced when the latch is closed. This should be in the middle of its adjustment range to provide final adjusting room on both directions. 6. Now bond the phenolic onto the fslg using epoxy/flox. Clamp in position and allow to cure. ® 30~ EJ Chapter17 IREV. 0/ 11-1-91 X:X-V~A ~1-1 n 17-24 f--==-=-=-=---'---------+~= CANOPY SYSTEMS / , L11ncnir lntemational Inc. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97766 7. Wrap the machine screw studs with a piece of tape to keep the upcoming resin off ~ of the threads. Now sand to smooth the edges of the phenolic, apply a flox fillet where necessary and add a 4 BID lay up over these four attach points. Contact at least 2" all around on the fslg sides. As always, be sure to clean and sand the bonding areas first. Make a good effort to keep the area of the phenolic (now with the 4 BID over it) smooth and flat so a good base is established for the latch to tighten up onto. Allow to cure then remove the tape and clean up the BID around the studs so that the latch will again seat solidly against the phenolic/BID base attachment. 8. Secure the latches with the two small (MS21042-832) all steel lock nuts. These are required since the available space is limited. Also mount the "strikes" using MS24694 machine screws. It is generally best (for clearance reasons) to insert them from the inside of the channel (for the fwd strikes) and attach the all steel lock nuts onto the outside. This will require a little hand operation of the counter sink. If there is room, you can of course run the screws in from the outbd side and place the nuts on the inside. 9. To attach the aft "strikes", since there is nothing else there, you can run the screws in from the inbd side and set +he all metal lock nuts on the inside of the channel. ,.-,....-.® 320FB B Chapter17 IREV. 0/ 11-1-91 ><I-1f'~.A( 17-25 i-------:===---=__J----------Hv~v CANOPY SYSTEMS '"" Lnncnir Inlcrnationnl Im:. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97756 E. Canopy plexiglass installation NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE COATING FROM THE CANOPY UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO! 1. With the canopy frame upside down on the bench, STILL IN ITS BRACE, lay the canopy into it. Adjust it from left to right and fwd to aft until a good fit is established. Note the areas of overlap. You should have about 5/8" minimum around all sides with less around the front curvature. 2. Trim the canopy frame and sand the edges smooth. This will NOT be a finished paint line but it will determine thatline to some degree. The actual finished paint line will be inside of the trim line by approximately 1/4". 3. Prior to bonding the canopy into the frame, sand a gradual bevel onto the outside of the cutout, this will help the transition during "finishing" later. 4. Also sand and smooth the inside frame surface where the plexiglass will be attached. 5. Now place the canopy back into the frame (inverted) and run a felt tip marker around the outside ofit to indicate on the plexiglass wrapping exactly where it will register back into the frame for bonding purposes. Transfer this line onto the inner side of the canopy protective coating as well. 6. Trim the canopy if necessary. Consult the recommended directions for canopy cutting produced by Airplane Plastics, which has been reproduced in this chapter in section 7, "Plexiglass Hints For Perfect Canopies". 7. Using a #30 bit, drill holes through the frame about every 6" around the entire perimeter of the canopy, directly adjacent to the edge of the plexiglass. These will be used for clecoes which will serve as temporary clamps to hold the canopy in position during cure. Refer to figure 17-16 8. Remove the canopy and peel back the protective coating, on the outside of the canopy, to a point beyond the felt marker line. Come back with plastic electrical tape (1/2" wide works best since it bends around contour lines easier) and remask the exposed canopy such that the tape line is just inside (by 1/8") the actual canopy frame line. Refer to figure 17-17. You'll be able to see the reference line marked on the inner protective coating. Make sure there are no other exposed areas of the canopy showing. All little peeled spots on the protective coating (inside or outside) must be covered with a piece of tape. 9. Sand the exposed surface of the canopy with 50-80 grit sand paper . ..~A® 320FB 1 17_26 lf--'-C_h_ap,_t:..;e____r_l_;_7_L.IR_E_v_.___0_/_l_l-_l_-9_1_--t'x-l.Ht-+I CANOPY SYSTEMS >°< Lancnir lnt.emalional Inc, Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97756 CANOPY TO FRAME, CLECO MOUNTING FWD EDGE Area washer Cleco----...., Figure 17-16 Canopy ••• ■ ...... ... Structural .--adhesive .··.·.•·-:•::.•·.: .....-. "' •• • • ■ • • • ... :: ...... :! •• .. .: ..... '• .' Frame ® 320FB 8 Chapter17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91.,.:::«f'A 17-27 1----'==::....::..:'--L-----------t,~ CANOPY SYSTEMS Lani:air Internntional Inc. Copyright 0 1991, Redmond, OR 97766 10. Mix up a batch of structural adhesive (with 5-10% flox added to thicken it up a bit) and spread a film on both the canopy and the frame. 11. With a little help from a friend, carefully place the canopy into position and set all the clecoes from the inside. It may be helpful to place an area washer over the deco to attain a little more surface area on it while clamping however, it usually works quite well without these washers. If the clecoes have any tendency to slip off, then use the washers. As you set the clecoes, press down firmly on the canopy to squeeze out excess adhesive. Wipe this away as you proceed. You will generally be able to witness the bond area integrity by seeing the contact through the hazy (sanded) plexiglass. It turns darker when it has good adhesive contact. Ifyou find that added pressure is needed in certain areas, just drill for a couple more clecoes. 12. When all the clecoes are set, carefully lift the unit off the bench and place it back onto the fslg to cure in the actual position. This is just a final safety measure to insure that you are not locking in any kind of twist in the canopy frame during this bonding process. With the canopy/frame positioned onto the fslg, wipe off any excess adhesive that squeezed out along the outside. Allow to cure at least 24 hours at room temperature. 13. Next, remove the canopy/frame and invert it back onto the bench top. Remove all the clecoes and clean away the protective coating from the inside. Peel it back about an inch and retape with plastic electrical tape to within 1/8" of the bond line. This bond line should be the same as on the other surface. At this time you may carefully beat the brace off of the canopy! 14. Sandwith50-80gritandclean. Thefwdareaofthecanopywillformaridgewhere the glass extends down away from the frame. Sand the edge of the canopy slightly and fill the remaining area to form a micro fillet so the BID tapes will install properly. This will also help to stiffen the front end. See figure 17-11. 15. Add 2 BID all around the interior perimeter of the canopy. Overlap at least 1" onto the frame. On the side rails, extend the BID tape down 1" past the point where the channel begins to roll out. This is to add additional stiffening to that area. See figure 17-17. Lnncair Inlcmnlional Inc:. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 Canopy fairing Figure 17-17 ....a------Canopy typ., keep upper portion protected always. //4J--1. Shiny black electrical tape typ. 2. Move tape up 1/16", add wet micro or lt. wt. filler & sand 1/16" 1/16" down to tape:---,i..1-,1-----..,_____ t 2BID • 3. Move tape up 1/16" again when spraying filling primer, sand down to tape 4. Move tape up once more and mask off with "fine-line" tape when ready to paint. 320FB l117-29 li--C_h_ap"-t_e_r_~_7AN-'---OR-;-;-·S_Y_S_TE_OM_/-~-l-_l_-9c:l:.._--+f-¥.+1 Lancuir Intemutiannl Inc. Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 F. Canopy open stops 1. The canopy must have stops that prevent it from rotating fwd (open) too far. These should be established at the front pivot weldment. 2. Make two phenolic shims that can be bonded (epoxy/flox) into the channel just aft of the point where the pivot weldment bolts into the canopy frame. See figure 17-18. 3. To establish this stop, open the canopy and support it so that it is as open as possible without contacting the fwd deck. There should be at least 1/2" clearance preferably so that even with a bouncing action, it will not hit the fwd deck (and scuff your paint). 4. Grind some small shims that can be bonded into the inside top of the canopy frame channel so as to contact the pivot weldment arms and prevent any further fwd rotation. See figure 17-18. They do not have to be very closely carved to shape since the epoxy/flox will fill any little voids. Wrap the aluminum arms in plastic tape then insert the carved shims with a generous amount of epoxy/flox added. Lower the canopy down onto the shims and allow to cure. You may need to clamp a retainer type brace temporarily to prevent the shim from slowly being wedged back out of position. Sand it smooth later, no BID are required. The edge of the canopy frame channel at the aft swing rod locations can also be adjusted so as to create a stop as well. CANOPY OPEN STOPS Figure 17-18 Phenolic Stop Block floxed in positionr---~ FWD '· Fwd Pivot Arm------- L11nco.ir Intemotionnl Inc. CopyrightC 1991, Redmond, OR 97766 G. Canopy sealing There are several commercially available rubber seals. The common "P" strip, while working quite well along the front and sides, does not last too long. It is however, pretty cheap, so it can be easily and quickly replaced without too much time or cost. The silicone rubber seals are the best. 1. The aft deck line is generally the toughest to achieve a good seal against. This is because it's a low pressure area up there and difficult to seal. The best means of sealing is to seal against the two faces of the roll - overs, not along the aft joggle as you might think of as being best. 2. The roll overs should be about 1/4" apart, so a relatively large seal strip can be nicely fitted along either of these faces such to seal well on the other face. See figure 17-19. 3. The fwd edge of the canopy frame will seal down onto the dust cover or it can seal directly onto the fwd deck joggle. This will depend on clearances and how you choose to fit the instrument panel dust cover which also sits on that same joggle. At this time, refer to info beginning on page 17-69, "Canopy sealing'', choose a method shown or devise your own and install it at this time, then continue through that section, installing your canopy locks and aft windows. From here thru page 17-68 apply only to the fwd hinge canopy system. Canopy/ Frame CANOPY SEALING Figure 17-19 ''P" Strip __.--FSLG Rollover 320FB EJ Chapter17 REV. 0/ 11-1-9117-31 1-----:::'.==-:..:....._J____..::..:_=--=.--=-=--+-/-¥-l-l CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancair Intemnlionnl Inc, Copyright 0 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 5. PROCEDURE: FORWARD HINGE CANOPY This section is to provide the information necessary to mount your Lancair 320 canopy as shown in figure 17-2. The normal mounting method is shown in figure 17-1. This installation may require alterations to the header tank (chapter 11, "Fuel System"), but any of the three header tank mounting configurations (permanent, hinged or screw mount) can still be used (Note - we do not recom- mend permanent installation of the header tank, since it severely limits future access to rudder pedals and engine mount bolts, and expansion of your instru- mentation cluster!). If your kit was shipped after 9/15/91, you should receive a header tank as shown in figure 17-20, which is already modified for the forward hinge canopy type installation. If you have one of the older tanks, it will have to be modified per the instructions included here. This section will detail the modification of the header tank and installation of the Forward Hinge Canopy. Read these instructions through entirely at least once before proceeding with these modifications. EJ Chapter 17 I REV. 0 / 11-1-91 K7( 17-32 '--=::,::_::=--::..:....-1..---------++~ CANOPY SYSTEMS )()( Lnnenir Intemalionnl Inc. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97756 A. Equipment, parts and tools required: Parts: Tools: Forward Hinge Canopy Kit Blueprint "Q" 3/8" wrenches (2) 3/16", 9/32" and 1/8" drill bits Drill motcr Hammer Hot glue gun or clamps Tape measure Router 1/4-20 Tap & drill bit Materials: L-320 Forward Hinge Canopy Kit Uni-Directional Carbon Fiber, 5" wide x 80' (ft.) long Epoxy/Flox mix Material for BID lay ups Bondo Sandpaper, #40 0rit White foam sheets, 1/4" & 1/2" Structural adhesive Plastic tape Epoxy/micro mix Nails 2x4" board, 16-17" long Hot glue (or clamps) Inflatable "D" seal or equiv. 3/8" plywood or equiv. Some scrap wood for making a canopy frame holding fixture Thin plastic, like supermarket grocery bags Double-sided tape or eqmv. ® 301\nr.nn. 8 Chapter17 IREV. 0/ 11-1-91 rl ""'-'.I:' n 17 .33 ~=~~..1..:.:::___....:...:_=..=..::...:._--1~ CANOPY SYSTEMS /::,, Lnncnir Intemntionnl Inc. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97766 B. Modifying header tank. Chapter 11 calls for attaching the header tank to the fwd deck. Before doing this, we need to install pockets in the header tank to accept the hardware for the canopy hinges. Ifyour kit shipped after 9/15/91, it should already have a modified header tank. Refer to drawing 17-20. Modified header tank. Figure 17-20 Ifyour tank has these pockets already installed, proceed to chapter 11, page 7 and begin the forward deck alignment there. When you are back to this point in assembly, you can skip from here to top of page 17-39, as all of the intervening steps have been performed for you already. If your tank does not have these pockets, begin with step 1., below. 1. Put tape or caps over the ends of the fuel tank fittings so that nothing from the following steps can get into them and form an obstruction. 2. Place the header tank in position on the forward deck, with the forward deck mounted in it's cradle. I ~ ,,,.,,ffll, ® 320FB 1·~ Chapter17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 0- V~R ~.1---'===C:_AN_j_O_P_Y_S_Y_S_TE...::.Mc.,__S_ _,:___~c-J.j Lancnir lntemuliannl Inc, Copyright O 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 3. Mark areas of header tank to be cut out for pockets (refer to blueprint "Q", L-320 8'7' FWD HINGE CANOPY, for locations). 4. Mark outline of header tank on fwd deck, and mark where pockets will be. 5. Cut out pocket areas. 6. Make foam blocks (or pcs of 2x4 wood) per figure 17-21, contouring to fwd deck shape. 7. Cover blocks with plastic release tape. 8. On a flat sheet of plastic bag, make 3 BID layups over the blocks and forming the flanges, as shown in figure 17-22. l-3 5/8" ---l r-3 3/8" 1 4 1/2" I 2" .______ ___. _l Mold for header tank pocket (make from foam or wood) Figure 17-21 r 3/8" ,,,..,,, "30~ B Chapter17 jREV. 0/ 11-1-91 ½.V~A ""'4U.r n 11-35 i--:===----=--:__.L.,_______::,____::,=----=---=-=--+A<'--l-1 CANOPY SYSTEMS ? Lnncnir lntc.mntiorml lnc, Copyright C 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 FORMING POCKET Figure 17-22 3BIDlayup Plastic bag 9. When dry, remove from plastic sheet, pry out taped blocks and trim molded pockets per figure 17-23. TRIMMING MOLDED POCKETS Figure 17-23 ~~ 1 1/4" flange, / typ. 3 sides CA/A 11-36 ~==:...::..:...--1..___...c___--tf-1'--l1 ® 320FB B Chapter 17 REV. 0/ 11-1-91 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lancair Intcmutionnl Inc, Copyrighl O 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 HEADER TANK POCKET MOUNTING AREAS - Figure 17-24 - 10. Position pockets on inside of header tank and mark positions, see figure 17-24. 11. Using #40 grit paper, 'scuff' the inside of the header tank where pockets will go. Clean surfaces of pockets and header tank with acetone or MC. 12. Using structural adhesive, bond the pockets to the inside of the header tank and clamp in place, wiping off any excess adhesive before it hardens, and leaving a bit to act as a fillet for the BID to be applied later. Let cure before proceeding. 13. Lay up a 3 BID attachment strip around pockets as shown in figure 17-25 . ..,~,R® 320FB 1 17_37 I f--=C=h=a,::_p.:::te::rc.:1::.:7'---'-R_E_v.__-'-O'-/_lc::lc.:-l=--9::...1__~,+1 CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnncair Inlemalional Inc, Copyrighl 0 1991, Redmond, OR 97756 3BID pocket inside of header tank 3BID attach POCKETATIACHMENT (typ. 2 plcs) Figure 17-25 14. Remove the tape or caps from the header tank fittings and proceed with the section in the manual for attaching the header tank to fwd deck (chapter 11). When you attach the header to the fwd deck, you will, at that time, attach the top of the pockets to the fwd deck. AT THAT TIME, LAY IN THE 8 BID STIFF- ENER SHOWN ON DWG "Q". NOTE: IF YOUR HEADER TANK HAS GEL-COAT ON IT, IT MUST BE REMOVED FROM ANY AREAS THAT ARE TO BE BONDED. You can now return to page 11-7, and perform the steps in the manual until you get back to this chapter. At that point, you can proceed to page 17-39 and begin at the top of the page. •- ,,,, ,,,,,_® 30~ EJ Chapter 17 REV. 0 I 11-1-91 '1/11/f~~ .;:;;iuI' .D 17-38 e-'==:.:.-=..:__..,L_____::_.:__::.::.._c:..=..._--ff')<Hi CANOPY SYSTEMS Lnncnir Intcmntionnl Inc. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97756 As previously discussed, the canopy frame installation must be initially fitted in conjunction with the forward deck and the top cowling. The cowling, being best fitted with the aid of the engine for placement, will most effectively locate the ideal forward deck line. The canopy frame will fit to that established line. C. Fuselage preparation 1. Referring to figure 17-26 and to the blueprint "Q" for "L-320 FWD HINGE CANOPY", measure aft to FS-17 .6, and put a mark on the top and inboard sides of both longerons as shown below. LOCATING STRUT BRACKET ATTACH POINTS ON LONGERON Figure 17-26 Mark both longerons at FS-17.6" I ~VCAfA® 320FB II17-3B I1-C=h=a::,p:..:t-=er:_l::.c;:....AN_j_O_R;-·;-·S_Y_S_TE_OMS_/_1_1-_1-_9_1_-++~ Lnnc:nir Intemntionnl Inc:. Copyright 01991, Redmond, OR 97766 2. You need to make a mounting plate to support the strut brackets that will be ~ mounted at the FS 17.6 position on each side of the aircraft. On your bench, lay out a piece of plastic and, using a marking pen, draw a square that is 2" wide and 8" long, making the lines dark enough to be seen through the lay up that follows. 3. Lay up 5 BID on the plastic, about 9" by 3", overlapping the pattern you have drawn. Don't worry about making the edges neat. When the mounting plate layup is still in the green cure stage, trim the edges to the pattern you have drawn. Allow to fully cure on a nice flat surface. 4. After the part is fully cured, cut it in half such that you now have 2 mounting plates, each about 2" x 4" in size. 5. Remove the plastic from the mounting plates. If you used the sandwich method, be sure you remove the plastic from both sides of the parts. 6. Draw a line down the center of both mounting plates, in the lengthwise direction. Mark one part "L" for left, the other "R" for right. 7. Doing first one side then the other, place each mounting plate against iL's respective longeron at the FS 17 .6 point and line up the center line on the mounting plate with the line you drew on the longeron. Slide the plate down until the top of the plate is 1/8" below the top edge of the longeron. Mark the plate as shown in figure 17-27 at the bottom point of the longeron. Remove the mounting plate and draw a line across it, as shown in figure 17-27, that is 3/8" below the marks denoting the bottom of the longeron 8. Again refer to the mounting plate shown in figure 17-27. Measure out 7/16" from the center line, in each direction, on the line you just made, and mark as shown for two holes to be drilled later. Make a mark for a third hole, on the center line, 1-1/4" down from the other two. Don't drill the holes yet. 9. Using the 1" x 1-1/2" aluminum angle provided in the kit, make two strut brackets as shown in blueprint "Q" (they are mirror images of each other). ,. • ® 304lnr.nn. EJ Chapter 17 I REV. 0/ 11-1-91 x-,<-V~A ~.r .o 11-40 i----..:==~----1-=-.:___.::...:_=--=:....::..::.-+ivvf¾-l-l CANOPY SYSTEMS "- Lanenir Int.cmutioru1.l Im:, Copyright Cl 1991, Redmond, OH 97756